Life-Size Mohawk From Gremlins 2 | Assembly & Painting Tutorial
[Music] [Laughter] [Music] what’s happening my fellow Geeks and Geeks welcome to a brand new episode of Cosplay Chris and in today’s video we’re going to be assembling painting and finishing this beautiful Mohawk bootleg yes it is a bootleg model kit from Gremlins to the new batch now this is based off a pre-existing very rare Japanese model kit that was created in 1990 with the release of Gremlins 2 the new batch it is cast off one of Rick Baker’s Mohawk puppets from the film The only thing missing is the actual Mohawk but and this is my personal preference I actually prefer the look of mohawk without the Mohawk he’s very crudely assembled and just held together with little dabs of hot glue from a hot glue gun just to give you guys an example of what we’re going for and the a aesthetic so I’m actually going to disassemble him heat him up with a heat gun and melt that glue back because we have to fill in all these areas here see the hands are separate the forearms bicep tricep uh the ears head torso we’re also going to foam fill him so to be sculpting in all the seams here and blending them all in we’re going to be using epoxy sculpt now I got to use this stuff before and the great thing is it gives you time to work with it and you can wet it smooth it down a lot like clay in about 24 hours it is fully hardened now I’m also going to be foam filling this guy we’re going to be using R foam 200 from Barn so with a lot of foam fillers you can get what’s called s Foams where it is soft and Squishy but with ar foam it’s rigid and with the 200 it is like lightweight concrete cuz a lot of people have given me advice when it comes to these and said you need some sort of a structure or some really rigid foam in there because sometimes the vinyl can warp over time especially if it’s in sunlight or whatnot so I’m actually going to keep the feet and the legs attached to the Torso but for now I’m going to take the arms The Head and the ears off and we’re going to start seaming patching and filling in all those joints and then we’re going to start bit by bit to phone film this guy now originally I wanted to do all the paint work by hand but I think it’s going to be a mixture of airbrush work and also hand painting possibly using oil colors because you look at the paint work on Mohawk it is very intricate very detailed and very involved and a lot of it is airbrush work and there are some areas where there’s no way you could do that by hand you need an airbrush to get in all those nooks and crannies especially when it comes to the base colors where it shifts from say like a green to to to a beige or a white or or a bone white for that matter I am aiming to do the Eyes by hand it’s probably going to be a bit tricky because of my shaky hands but I like a challenge and we haven’t done a build video on here for quite some time um you know I’ve been a bit busy kind of got married and doing other things working on the second Channel I did do uh I wouldn’t call pull it an unboxing but it was more or less just showcasing this piece on the second channel the Chris Stanley Channel but for this video this is going on the main channel of course we’re going to finish this guy off because I’ve always wanted one of these given the fact that the original model kits go upwards of like 2 and 1/2 to 3,000 Australian this is the closest I could get uh to to obtaining one of these because they’re just so rare when they do pop up on eBay they go for an absolute MZ up so I’m actually going to disassemble him right here we’re going to be using a heat gun or a pain stripper gun so like I said I’m going to leave the legs on the Torso but I’m going to take the arms The Head and the ears off and then we’re going to get to work patching seaming foam him and put him [Music] together all right so we’re going to start to add some epoxy sculpt to all these seam lines here now again what I love about epoxy sculp is the amount of time you have so it does have the working time here you know you got your 30 minutes for sticky and most adhesive 1 to 2 hours easy to work with 2 to 3 hours setting up formable detail 24 Hours hard cured and waterproof and again you can use water on this to smooth it all out which is going to be perfect to blend it all into all this beautiful detail and recreate some of the scales and whatnot so I’ve only got a little bit here hopefully I can get away with using using part A Part B all up not only on the hands but obviously behind the ears the Torso and bring it all together now once this particular step is done I’m going to coat the entire piece in a primer but we’re also going to be filling it with our foam 200 now when it comes to epoxy sculpt you just want to make sure you get even part A and even Part B and knead them together like dough like it’s a full-blown workout for your fingers but once you’re good to go and we start sculpting those details back in it was just a matter of grabbing some sculpting tools that say you use on clay sculptures and stuff like that to resculpt those scales make sure you’ve got good coverage and the great thing is like I said before you can use water to soften it and blend it back into the surface so I grabbed a scar sponge or I think everyone else calls it a Brillo pad if I’m not mistaken and smooth it and blend it back into the surface and then you can resculpt those scales which quite frankly was pretty therapeutic and the good thing is it’s sets in stages and you’ve still got a good couple of hours working time where it is soft malleable and pretty much like water-based clay and then 24 hours later it is hardened Like a Rock so I’ve let the epoxy sculpt dry overnight on the arms now before we actually reattach these to the Torso and seam them and Patch them I’m actually going to get some supercast resin and pour it in the bottom of both feet and that way it kind of keeps the center of gravity at Bay and also just helps it stand upright so I’m probably going to fill it about halfway each leg and then the rest will obviously be the r foam 100 now once this resin has set i’m then going to reattach the arms and then get some more epoxy sculp do the arms fill them in and then attach the head okay as always with the supercast mix ratio is 100 to 100 again this was just to kind of keep some weight in the legs so it would help him balance accordingly and I ended up fing up a bit more like more towards the hips as you can see right there as it was jelling trying to get a nice little artistic angle going on and once we reattach the arms with a hot glue gun we could get back to work sculpting in and blending everything back together with that epoxy sculpt again this one was a bit more fiddly cuz it was a bit more detail to fill in as opposed to to say the arms but I again I found this very therapeutic once uh carving and sculpting all those scales back in now we’re going to grab our R foam 200 now the expansion of Aro 200 isn’t as severe as like your regular expander Foams that you’d get from Bunnings Warehouse it definitely does take several goes several batches to really fill up those pieces now if you see right here because of the heat generated from the rphone it actually softened the vinyl and cracked the epoxy sculpt in the process which I kind of thought was going to happen so all that was left to do was to let it cool and refill it with more epoxy scull but I have an aluminium Rod inserted in the head with some more foam and then what I do is pour the last batch of foam in the top of the Torso there and then stick that pole in with the head on it and once it was all lined up and set we’re going to fill in the blanks when it comes to the neck and the gels there and sculpting all those those details lines and like the sagging skin lines so this was probably the fidi process but once he was all dry we cut to the next day and it’s time to prime or should I say it’s time to Prime so I’m just going to grab a rustolium uh white primer uh this is actually one of the best ones to use when uh coding a vinyl service like I know I’ve used this one plenty plenty of times in custom Collectibles but uh rust solum is definitely the one that bites the best when it comes to vinyl [Music] surfaces all righty so I’ve let this guy sit for a good 2 days just to really let that primer spray bite onto the surface so the next step is before we get to air brushing now I ideally and originally I wanted to do all of this by hand but unfortunately if you wanted to get it as accurate as possible like the true look of Mohawk you got to airbrush it but we’re firstly going to do a wash so I’m going to get some good oldfashioned shoe polish unfortunately it is really tough to find kiwi shoe polish these days which is a bit of a sad thing so we’ve got smart brown shoe polish to start off with so I’m going to water some down in a cut not too much but you don’t want to use uh undiluted shoe polish on this cuz it may stain uh the surface way too much we just need a light brown wash not only to get in to all the nooks and crannies but also to kind of lightly stain the surface cuz from what I’ve seen especially on the biceps and the years there is a nice brown stain on the surface not so much on the Torso area it’s a bit more lighter bordering on like a fish belly White from what I can see but then there are other photos where the belly is indeed like a brown so I guess it honestly just varies on what your look is of Mohawk there were probably a bunch of different paint jobs that weren’t exactly all the same when it came to the actual screen used puppet so first step is we’re going to do a wash over the entire piece getting all those Nooks of crannies all the beautiful detail we’re going to let that dry for about a good half day just to make sure all the little uh uh crevices and stuff like that are fully dry and then we are going to get to airbrushing this guy I’m really excited and nervous at the same time so you want to know what was a happy little accident when applying this wash it actually gave me the perfect coloring for a starting point on the Torso and the belly uh when it comes to adding the dots and the greens and stuff like that again a happy accident I didn’t plan it but the overall wash just gives the whole piece a nice starting point and essentially just a beautiful blank canvas but as we dab away that excess you can see the texturing and the detail it’s picking up and again it’s a perfect starting point for when we appli the greens on either side and then eventually the dots and not going to lie this definitely was the fliest part I thought the epoxy scope was but getting in all the nooks and crannies and the awkward angles because it’s such a solid piece and he’s sharp and we got there in the end it took a good hour and a bit but we got there in the [Music] end all righty we are now ready to airbrush this beautiful looking bastard so again I wanted to originally do this by hand but if we’re going to do this the proper way the way Rick Baker and his crew painted the original puppets we got to airbrush him there may be a few instances where I may I may touch things up here and there by hand with say uh an acrylic paint or an oil color but for the most part we’re going to be airbrushing this guy so we’re going to be using a combination of ammo brand and airav paints so these are airbrush paints they still need to be diluted a little bit so if we do have to do that we have from liquitex the airbrush medium so you’re able to water down without losing the consistency of the color so I’ve tried my best to figure this out in steps cuz there is a lot going on not only when it comes to the Gremlins but most notably Mohawk so I’m going to be starting off with little bits of veins and brown veins and stuff like that mostly on the ears but also little bits on the hands and the feet but also misting on some brown uh on the hands and the feet as well but for the most part it’s going to be about the ears so I’ve got a combination of blue I also have a hull red and I also have a sand Brown so we’re going to be doing a combo of these obviously we’re going to be doing some blue veins through the ears this isn’t a transparent uh vinyl but with a bit of vinage it gives you the illusion that it’s thin ears also going to be doing some brown highlights on the Brows here and there then the next step is grabbing a dark green airbrush color that’s when we’re going to start to airbrush a dark green on the sides the obliques certain parts of the head we got to get that patent formation going and also around the back now once that process is done I can then start doing the dots on the scales just using a matte black so we’re going to be blending in onto the Torso here so I am actually going to be getting a lead pencil and marking out the exact coordinates of the diamond formation that he has on his torso on his chest for that matter but also we have the blend of big thick dots thick gauge dots going into small little dots on the Torso so again this is going to be a massive learning curve for me I’ve never done something like this I’m nervous but so excited at the same time then after that on the back there’s a big yellow strip and then there’s highlights and white highlights I’ll be doing a running commentary throughout the entire process again I’ve tried to divide it into sections to make this process as efficient as possible haven’t even gotten to the eyes yet the eyes is a a later problem I’m leaving that till last cuz I’m no good at doing eyes eyes so keep an eye out for that one so lame I love you I love you that’s my wife so I’ve got my airbrush all ready to go so we’re going to load up either the blue or the brown and get started on the ears the hands and the feet so like I said we’re going to be starting off with our Browns and our Blues now this gave me a lot of practice to dial in the airbrush even though later on the video I Really dial it in but this is also going ahead and like shave in like certain parts where there’d be veins or you see bone kind of Dipping down into a valley like where you see the bone structure on the feet but also on the ears and the flaps and going around the outside of the ears to really pick up the kind of chippiness if that makes sense of of Mohawk’s ear shape and again this just adds more depth more layer more realism and then I loaded up my blue into the airbrush once this stage was done and then started the vein work and don’t get me wrong like the brown is also vein work but that blue just adds another uh level of realism to this piece and as far as reference goes from what I can see there’s no real other veining going on on the Mohawk puppet for the most part it is just the ears and again we’re not dealing with transparency here uh but I am grabbing a lead pencil and marking out Mohawk’s ear markings he black and white ear markings I just want to make sure I got them all right before uh going over them with a sharpie and just marking them out now I was originally going to airbrush them but I hadn’t probably dialed in my skills so I got something else that worked an absolute treat all right so I’ve just ducked out to my local craft shop so here we’ve got echles Le cuz what I figured out is to airbrush those ear lines I’m and I’m going to end up going out of the lines for sure so I figured if I get a high-end permanent marker and do the coloring by hand for the inner parts of the years but the outer part the outside of the ear the back of the ears I can still airbrush that cuz the patenting there is is aot more forgiving so I got a uni poscar permanent marker apparently these are pretty good wanting something clearly that’s streak free if worse comes to worse let it dry and then go over it once again so I got a big one and a smaller one for the finer details so like I said even though I I didn’t feel confident with airbrushing uh the the ear markings these permanent markers work an absolute treat and there was like minimal streaking which was great so very happy with with with the ear coverage there now it’s time to get to work really deta sing this piece I’m grabbing that dark green and starting to shade in the sides of the Torso what I’ve noticed with the Mohawk puppet that Rick Baker and and co-creator is it starts as a light kind of misted green where where the pecs are the obliques are and as it transitions towards around the back of him it gets a lot darker so you build up more of that green and also doing the same on the face just trying to work the patterns out and obviously using reference of the puppet and and then also going in with my Browns once again for for the Chim now I’m also grabbing the red that I showed before for the gills and also the yellow for the back stripe markings as well that eventually will have some dots on there it is quite an intricate uh bit of patterning going on all over this puppet and when it came to the fins and the gills with the Reds you’ve really got to build it up uh bit by bit kind of let it dry because it does start off as a pink and like a transparent pink and then it goes to more of a a stark pink and then eventually the more you hit it the more it will eventually turn red whilst also grabbing a black and and just highlighting around the edges those gills and kind of like wisping down the lines there to really highlight the detail of this particular sculpt so I was very happy with how that particular one turned out and once it’s all glossed all up it kind of brings it all together and also just coloring his lip there so it’s very touch and go like you’re just constantly referencing all the reference photos you have of the puppet and any other Stills for that matter even coloring the ears like that so I did opt to color the back of the ears with an airbrush because the pattern was a lot more forgiving than the front of the ears and to me the the the front markings on the ears uh a lot more of a showcase than the back of the ear not to say that I did a a slack job on the back but also I was able to because of the the forgiving pattern I was able to use the airbrush that time and again just going in and marking all the dots on the back and also doing the dot process on the front even his diamond formation pattern which I think is so unique and so beautiful this is where I really dialed in my airbrushing skills so much so I actually went back and changed the face which I will address in a minute but doing all the scales here again like with the epoxy sculpt method it was just so therapeutic and just such a learning curb in terms of how Stark you want the dots to be or how light you want them to be now you’re probably looking at this guy and thinking that face looks a little bit different and a little bit more detailed and you’re right so the original look of the face I was not happy with at all because I hadn’t dialed in the settings on the airbrush properly and by the time I started detailing this side of the body I’d really honed in on how to properly dial in the settings most notably the PSI on the air compressor the original PSI I had was 50 psi but a good operating PSI for fine detail work usually 25 and once I adjusted those settings also fiddle with the nozzle in terms of uh how much paint is coming out it really dialed in and made everything a lot more sharp but you can see the original face here the details are quite soft especially the black facial markings so I resprayed the face just a white and then went back in and did the exact same way I did the original face but everything is just a lot more sharper this time around just adding a bit more detail to the scales on the brow here i’ still have to to go back in and do these scales here so I will show that after this particular clip but just wanted to make sure that people who are airbrushing especially finer details make sure your PSI on your compressor is at about 25 to 30 at Max for the finer detail stuff now all that’s left to do is do the other side of all these spots all the scale spots I also have to do the eyes so what I’m thinking is getting some liquid latex and masking off around the perimeter so I can do the proper airbrushing and lay down the foundation and also do the pupils by hand that one I’m kind of nervous about because I really want to line it up and I don’t want him looking skew or cockeyed for that matter now in terms of a base it’s going to be simple Museum quality and it will not break the bank and then once that’s all done we’re going to seal him up with a 2K sealer just to make sure none of this paint work scrapes off in the meantime now you see some of the facial markings here as well as the ears so I do have to go around the border with white and you can see I’ve already started it right there and for that I just got another uni posca permanent marker this time I got white so that is the next step and then we’re going to start doing the rest of all of the black scaling and the horn detail work I swear these whizbang permanent markers are my new favorite thing I kind of equate this to Mike Tyson’s face tattoo these strange cheek and jaw markings on the sides of Mohawk they’re so intricate intriguing and I love them now I actually just want to address uh the the the horns all over like say his jawline and the back those are actually a happy accident from doing the brown stage um when it came to airbrushing the whole figure and it just kind of happened to look really good and I just went in with the black around the base and some areas uh especially on on the toes like when it came to the toenails and you’ll see that footage in a bit just how well it highlights and just adds a bit more detail I’m just going in there and just finishing off the scales on the uh left side his left side for that matter and it is hard like you got to make sure your settings are dialed in the same as they were on the other side so all the dots line up you see they just grabbing the black and just really highlighting and detailing those garly nails and just finishing off the head scales right there again it is such a fiddly process but it brings it all together now I’m just going to drill a hole in his feet I’m going to use an aluminium pole aluminium D for that matter just grabbing a uh craft box that I got from Bunnings this may look familiar I actually use this for the Batman Batmobile di armor I did two years ago when the Batman came out I’m just going to grabb a rustolium flat black and give it some nice even coverage this was about three good coats now it doesn’t matter about the actual finish because we’re going to be coating that in a gloss automotive paint later on now I wanted a little plaque so I went to Office Works and printed uh two variations of the Gremlins posters but I opted for the classic one and this is actually a cheap acrylic frame you can get from Kmart for a couple of bucks it’s going to be displayed with it now I’m just going to grab some liquid latex from barn and this is to mask off around the eyes so when I go into airbrush I don’t have to worry about getting any overspray on all that hard work and detailed work that I’ve done on the face so I’m going to start with uh coating both eyes with a white just so we’ve got a perfect blank canvas uh make sure they’re all lined up looking good I’m going to go in with the red and get some nice even coverage over both eyes just make sure they’re full red and then I’m going to mix the red and the yellow and then I’m going to apply a bit of orange just give a bit of depth and almost like a glowing look to the eyes now once that was done I was happy with that I just grabbed the yellow and then went in and started to lay down the foundation of what eventually will be the pupil because there is a bit of yellow around the pupil once I was happy with that just grabbed the black and started going for the pupils and this was the hardest part trying to line those pupils up I just grabbed that white perent markup and also outlined the pupils and took off the masking latex now it’s time to lower him down onto the display playay with those cut pieces of aluminium tube now this is the spray we’re going to be using this is an acrylic clear coat jam and clear now originally it was going to be a 2K sealer but this is actually a 1K sealer and it worked an absolute treat he looks gross and slimy and now we are ready for the final reveal [Music] [Music] [Music] and there we go guys to say I’m stoked is an understatement I really tested myself with this one it was a stressful pain job to do but I leared a lot in the process and I’m just really over the moon with how this has turned out now if anything if I were to change something I may go back in and Fiddle with his left eye the more I look at it and I think it is a distortion with the casting his left eye is placed a little bit higher and just a skewed ever so slightly as opposed to his right eye but I think it’s also one of those things where I’m looking at it way too much I’ve just got to walk the away from it but I’m definitely glad I forced myself to learn how to airbrush I’ve still got many a ways to go in terms of really refining techniques and stuff like that but now I’ve learned stuff on Mohawk that I can transfer over to custom Collectibles and stuff like that speaking of the next custom collectible is going to be this mcfallen toys medieval Batman which I’m really excited about now you can’t really see cuz it’s out of frame but I also have the little poster plaque down here on display which is cool and it’s like a little option to have ideally I want to have him in the background of my videos there’s a bit of like empty space here at the moment so I might get like a little pedestal or something Place him here in the corner and also scare the out of my wife and she comes home guys thank you so much as always for watching and the incredible support I know obviously things on the channel here a little bit more quieter these days because I spread out the build videos and that’s why I made the separate second channel so you know so essentially just keeping the talking videos separate from the building videos guys wherever you are in the world please have yourselves an absolute cracker of a day I hope you will hope you’re happy be merry be silly and until next time geks and Gad please always remember cosplayers do it best [Applause]
#gremlins #tutorial 今日は、グレムリン 2 の海賊版モヒカンモデルキットの組み立てと塗装のプロセスを紹介します (実際のモヒカンは除きます、笑)。とても楽しくて、その過程でたくさんのことを学びました… お楽しみください! 音楽: @WhiteBatAudio
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