Creating The Batman Cowl For Gotham Noir
[Music] what’s happening my fellow geks and gek cats welcome to a brand new very exciting episode of Cosplay Chris now in honor of our brand new fan film Gotham Noir that is currently crowdfunding on Kickstarter I will leave the link down below at for Gotham Noir I’ve teamed up once again with danello belli and Sarah lier of Lux media but this time we have the famous Vincent desanti of wamp stomp films coming on to help with this fan film today I’m going to be showing you guys a behind the scenes look of molding casting and finishing the Batman cow that I will be sporting in the fan film Gotham Noir so it is done it is here it has been resin printed at a company called fa Fox which I’ve used in the past now this is based on a 3D scan of my head that was originally done by my good buddy miles #m mybuddy miles the scan was then cleaned up by Art deving who then went on to design the cow so because this takes place in the early 1900s we want to give a sense of really kind of homemade crude with the stitching very reminiscent of patson at the same time but the ears I love the ears I love how demonic the ears look we have a beautiful leather texture and here it is in all its Glory resin printed ready to go now originally the base color was white that that was the raw color it came in and the camera wasn’t reading it too well so I gave it two coats of gray Prime filler obviously to fill in some of the the print lines they were minimal print lines and they kind of blend in with the leather texture but also the camera is able to pick up the beautiful detail that you see right here so what we’re going to be doing is creating a silicon glove mold now this is indeed going to be separated at the neck very much like Christian Bale’s Dark Knight and Dark Knight Rises cow so the idea is once it’s separated I’m going to have a bust of my scan 3D printed by my good buddy Ben of bable f I’m then going to get a lro diving Hood put that on my scan then put the neck seal over the hood and attach the neck seal to the hood like could hear it around the perimeter here cuz that way it’ll help the next seal snap down into place and then pop the cow on top and theoretically I’ll be able to move my head without any real Bo out of the next seal cuz that can happen sometimes unless it’s tacked down and then obviously painting finishing weathering highlighting all the beautiful detail of the stitching right here so like I said Gotham Noir is now currently on kicks start and we’re really excited about this one so again just wanted to show you guys the behind the scenes look of what’s going to go into the engineering of this cow and also some nice gnarly worn shots at the end now the Silicon we’re going to be using is Pinky s you guys have seen me use that a lot I love it so we’re probably going to work towards about 10 good coats including some keys that are going to be placed over various areas of the cow I’m really excited kind of nervous at the same time because you put so much work in like Financial investment into stuff like this you want it to fit perfectly so from what I’ve seen with the scans and everything and art deving has been incredible comparing the scans to how the file looks with my head scan it should be a pretty good fit now we’re going to be casting it in a material called f140 which is a flexible urethane from Barnes I’m going to be tinting that black that’s what I used on the Phantom Cal a couple of years ago so it’s very user friendly you don’t really see many tutorials on casting in urethane these days so obviously urethane is the ideal way to go but before we get to any of that we’re going to slap some silicon on this beastly looking thing so let’s get to it you know it’s time for some shitty commentary now I do apologize in advance for a the uh gray hairs you’re going to be seeing a lot of and be the awful fashion sense that I sport in this video I’m one of those people where I wear daggy clothes when I’m not going out especially when I’m doing stuff like this but all in all I did about 10 coats now the first two coats are always uh very important that’s called The Print coat or print coat so you want to get into all that finer detail especially the stitching the last thing we want is air bubbles in our urethane castings and because it was a bit colder on this particular day it gave me a bit more time to really work it into all the details grab a straw and blow out those air bubbles um now I do usually start off with four just untouched coats and by untouched I mean no thick seal which is a thickening agent and you essentially just add a few drops to your batch and you can put it on a vertical surface but in this case I lay the cow down flat so I can properly fill in the eyes the mouth area the ears the nose anything that has a kind of high Edge silicon doesn’t really want to build up on there if it hasn’t been thickened up and it can be one of those things where you just keep going and going and layering up everywhere else has a nice even coverage but the ears can ultimately suffer now these are our keys I actually used a spare ice cube tray for this but I’m also going to grab some siloxy from SM on and we’re essentially just going to adhere the keys on we don’t need a bunch of keys but it just helps with the shell mold now the sil epoxy is silicon base and it’s essentially a silicon adhesive so the great thing is you can use it on any silicon now we’re going to do our plaster bandage mother mold now originally I was going to do fiberglass and I actually started the fiberglassing process but the gel coat just was not kicking properly for some reason so I opted for plaster bandage plaster bandage is a lot more user friendly a lot more safe even though I am wearing a respirator that’s just more or less for the plaster bandage dust so when I do go to start the front half I do vaseline off and seal off and kind of do the release around the perimeter of the back shell and again it’s very user friendly and it’s also stronger the same time I use gypsona plaster bandage which is a medical grade plaster bandage which it’s something you want and also it was a very hot day considering where in winter at the moment so I left that out in the sun to dry and get all that moisture out so the the following day we’re ready to demold now I’m just cutting off the excess flange around the bottom just to make it all nice and neat now I do use disposable pegs to keep everything in place now when you’re taking the front half of the shell mold it’s really a back and forth thing you don’t want to put too much stress on the chin area cuz that’s where a lot of buildup can be in terms of uh a vacuum release now I use a combination of Vaseline and dishwashing soap to put over the surface so this peels off easily especially around the chin but also the nose and the ears it’s one of those things with the ears you want to be so careful not to tear that silicon even though it’s fresh cured silicon you still run the risk of tearing it especially when that D molding right at the end now we’re going to grab our f-140 so part A is 50 part A is 100 so I did five batches in total the first three were 400 G so that equates to 133 G to 266 G obviously with the 300 it’s uh part a 00 Part B 200 g so this particular cow uses a lot of urethane but as you saw before just then I take a disposable little hobby brush and brush the urethane in the tip of the years so we don’t get any air bubbles now the great thing about f140 is you’ve got about 7 minutes which is great to get full coverage and the next day we’re ready to demold I’m just going to sprinkle some talcon powder in there just to make it all soft and smooth and not tacky so it won’t stick to itself when we demold now when when you do demold a urethan cal you’ve really got to take your time push it inwards to release it all especially those ears really dig your hands down the bottom and then slowly pull the casting out and quite frankly it was a Flawless casting no air bubbles in the ears the nose the stitching looked great and I was very happy now we’re just going to start the trimming process obviously getting rid of all that excess urethane and also cutting out the mouth opening and the eye holes now I just use a fine hobby knife just to really take my time some people use scissors obviously use scissors uh for for the neck seal area but when it comes to the opening of the mouth and the eyes I want it to look pristine and almost like it was cut by a machine then obviously separating the neck seal from the top of the cap now unfortunately the files were corrupt when I was showcasing how to glue down the hood to the next seal but this is the lra hood I have uh that’s an ocean diving hood that you can get offline now I use clex 227 to adhere the next seal to the lyer hood as you can see right there and I let that sit overnight so luckily I took these progress photos just so it gives you guys something to look at now once everything was dry I kind of trimmed everything and just make sure everything was hunky dory on the inside but we got to attach our velcro to the back of the next seal which I’ve obviously slit down the back so I’ve got a mixture of Neo EVA foam and self-adhering velcro and it’s one of those things where you have to build up one side so it evenly sits flush with the other the velcro just so the next seal both pieces both sides sit flush otherwise one is going to be higher than the other if that makes sense a little bit of engineering a little bit of uh thinking that has to go into this otherwise if you just do two sides of velcro one will be higher than the other now when it comes to painting this thing it was very experimental but I really dialed in a method that really worked for me so I’m just going to grab a sand Brown this is an airbrush paint from my local hobby shop dialing my airbrush out on full and misting it over the neck seal and the cow and you do kind of build up in certain areas you know like the neck muscles and stuff like that the kind of highrise areas you add a bit more paint but just slowly misting on this particular color and you don’t want it a stark sand Brown on the surface you just want it to evenly coat everywhere just so it gets into all that leathery detail and it it it went on great and it also is a nice little starting point it definitely gives that leather look but we do have to dial it back now I experimented with steel wo But ultimately what I found works best is a Scara sponge or some people call it a Brillo pad soaked in warm water get rid of the excess water and start to scour away that paint but what’s left is like a leathery grain and also picks up and highlights all the stitching areas and once you Pat it dry it looks great and you can really dial it back as much as you want it it it’s very subjective so you know there are certain areas that still maybe built up with the sand Brown and you you can just hit it with the Scara sponge once again and dial it back just so it’s not too leathery and not too weathered in a certain area and obviously doing the same for the Cal you can see all that beautiful detail and stitching being highlighted when we remove the excess now I wanted a hint of a blue depending how you lit it so I got a Pain’s gray oil color and very lightly dry brushed it all over the surface with a chip brush and again it’s very subjective you know you can dial it in and really Build It Up conc certain areas like the neck muscles right there as you can see I’m really highlighting it but then I grabbed a white oil color once everything was done once everything I I felt looked nice and leathery and highlighted the stitching and you definitely have to build it up cuz the oil does absorb uh into the urethane but as you build it up it just gives that illusion of weathered stitching old leather stitching now once I was happy with all this I sealed the entire Cal up with a liquitex matte varnish and now we’re ready for the final reveal [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] and there you go guys the Gotham Noir cow is done and dusted Beyond over the moon with how it’s turned out especially just making it a two-piece cow with that hood just makes for a bit of extra neck movement so been tinkering with different urethanes obviously you guys saw that this was cast in f140 well this is F160 so it’s a bit more helmy as nice soft and supple as the f140 is this kind of adheres to your face a little bit more especially in those really hard turns where the cow wants to lift away from here so this is definitely something that I’m looking into in terms of for the final film do we use an F160 upper Cal and an F1 40 lower piece because this is definitely the piece that needs to be a lot more softer now that being said a massive thank you to my good buddy miles of flux 3D for helping with the initial head scan a massive thank you to art deving for creating this beautiful 3D file and of course my good buddy Benny of benx for printing my 3D scan and also helping out casting this beautiful chest element and of course my dear friend Josh for helping with the filming of this reveal footage and those cheeky photos that you are seeing with that being said the kickstarter for Gotham Noir is well underway I will leave the link down below please help out every little bit counts with that also being said wherever you are in the world please have yourselves an absolute cracker of a day I hope you’re well hope you’re happy be merried be silly and until next time GES and gay cats please always remember cosplayers Do It Best yeah [Music] [Applause]
#batman #cosplay Gotham Noir kickstarter: http://kck.st/3xc8r5b 公開映像: @beatdropbandit6466 カウルデザイン: @art_deving 樹脂プリント: @facfox3d 3Dスキャン: @flux3d_ 3Dプリント/追加鋳造: @benablefx 胸のエンブレム 3D ファイル/追加 3D プリント: @pheelgoodcreations バットスーツのコンセプトデザイン: @speraillustrated & @texlangfordart 成形、鋳造、最終塗装製作: @chrisstanleyofficial 今日は、ファンフィルム「Gotham Noir」のバットマンカウルの成形、鋳造、仕上げのプロセスを紹介します。この 1900 年代初頭のバットマンファンフィルムは、@luxxemedia と @WompStompFilms から提供されました。とても楽しかったので、皆さんに気に入っていただければと思います。お楽しみください。
MAG.MOE - The MAG, The MOE.