この驚異的なマジックソードビルドでコスプレをレベルアップしましょう!
Hey, guys, welcome to the channel. I’m Tiffany
and I’m excited to bring you another tutorial. And this one is going to be for an amazing prop
build and it is for Magik from Marvel Rivals. And oh, I can’t wait to share it with y’all.
This thing. Isn’t it cool? And it’s pretty, pretty lightweight. It is mostly made out of foam, as well as a little bit of 3D printed
parts and a pipe for structural support. And the best part is it comes apart for
transportation. And in this video I’m going to go over how I made everything from start to
finish. But before I can remember to like the video and subscribe to the channel, as well
as don’t forget to check out my other Magik tutorials to help you with your costume.
And here’s everything that you will need for making the sword and all the links to
everything in the description, as well as a link to my blueprint, which is available on
TiffanyGordonCosplay.com. And this blueprint I really used it as a guide, and I like to
color coordinate a lot of my blueprints when I print them out, so that way I know
which thickness I’m going to be using. And this is really important when you are
building a bone structure inside the piece, because you need to make sure that all of your
pieces will be thick enough to encase that piece. And basically what I did was I figured
out where I was going to separate the blade portion of the sword, so that
way it would fit in my suitcase for travel. I will note that I did end
up shortening the blade by 3 to 4in, just because the bottom section was a
bit too long to actually travel with. So be aware that you may have to change
some stuff. So I traced the inside blade line. Now this we’re going to basically
be making a box out of it. So we’re not going to be worrying about the outer blade
section that’s going to be pointed. We’re only going to be worrying about
the middle flat part right now. And the best part that I found for it to
separate for me was underneath the bottom decorative piece. And this made it where
you really couldn’t see the separation. But if you don’t plan on it coming apart, don’t
worry about that. Just cut the blade as one piece instead. And then I put this piece onto ten
millimeter HD foam and traced it out twice, followed by a quick heat treat with a heat gun
as well as cutting it out with a box cutter next. And then I cut a ton of strips of rectangles, and
these were going to be also out of ten millimeter foam, but they were going to be the width of
what my inner bone structure was going to be, and that was going to be size 3/4
inch CPVC pipe. So I measured my pipe, and I made sure that the foam width
was as wide as the pipe. As well as you will want some inner bone structure when
doing this kind of hollow like construction. And this is to make sure that your
sword is not going to be floppy. And you can see here where I kind of
marked where I’m going to be putting my foam parts on top. So I did end up
adding some other ten millimeter foam, the same width as our outer parts, and then
applied my contacts cement glue to all parts. And once the glue was fully dry, then I could start to assemble. And
I started by doing the outer walls of each of our blade pieces. And this is where
we’re going to start forming our box shape. And then when that was done, it was
time for the inner parts to apply. And for these little trick that’s not as
good, but it works for little tacks. You can still apply your contact cement glue
while it is wet. It will not bond as well, but for having it slide into place, you
can always apply it wet and then slide it there and hold it until it dries fully,
and then it will be tacky enough to stick. Now I wouldn’t do this as a normal type of
attachment for your glue with foam pieces, but for pieces that aren’t going to be visible, this works well. As well as for the top part
of the blade and part of the hilt. It has this decorative. It looks like the Pokemon,
the electro one. I don’t remember his name. Let me know in the comments what Pokemon that
is, but I stacked it up to the thickness that we needed, the width of our pipe, and
then our walls. And here is what it should look like before you cap it off.
And this is what the pipe will look like once it’s inside. When it’s together as
well as when you separate the two pieces. But if you don’t plan on transporting
this and making it disassembled, then you don’t need to do these inner parts.
Just do a basic main foam strip down the very center and that should be fine. But I did these
extra ones as a channel for our pipe to go in, and this makes it so it doesn’t
move and it will stay in place. And speaking of pipe, I’m using 3/4 inch CPVC
pipe which I’m going to cut with a pipe cutter, and I did it the length that I want it to
be through the handle, as well as through to where we wanted it to stop inside our foam
piece of the sword. And for the handle part, I wanted this to be extra strong, so I ended up
3D modeling it and printing it in PVA filament. And you can find my file for that on my
website. TiffanyGordonCosplay.com. It is a file for the handle in three different
parts for printing as well as the gem which will be attached to the sword later
on. If you don’t have a 3D printer, you can always make this out of foam, but it
will take a little bit more time and engineering. And once it was printed, I did need to attach
it to our pipe. And for this I use two part epoxy. First, the pommel of the piece,
putting it at the bottom and then slowly assembling each piece on top of that with the
pipe inside of it until all three parts of the handle were connected. Then wait 24 hours for
the glue to fully cure before working on it. And for me, because it is a 3D printed part, you
will have stair steps from any 3D printer and I don’t like the look of that, so I wanted to clean
it up. And for this I use Rust-Oleum two and one primer. And that’s where you apply it. And it’s
going to put all of that primer on the surface. And you’ll use a 220 grit sandpaper once it’s
dry to sand it away. And that’s going to make all of your parts flat because you’re sanding
away all the extra pieces. And it’s going to fill all of those inner stair step pieces,
and you won’t have that printer look any more. Then I inserted it into our
foam pieces, which I’ll note I did end up cutting a circle part with
Cos-Tools hole drill to insert that pipe, and then I glued it together with Surebonder
hot glue sticks. Then when that was dry, it was time for another coat of contact
cement glue. Before we close off all of the interior parts and we have our fully
boxed shape piece. Then for details. And I was of course on a con crunch
because I always am and I wanted to cut this out really fast. So
I ended up using my Glowforge, which is a laser cutter. But you do not need a
laser cutter to cut out these foam pieces. You can trace each of these pieces with tracing
paper onto your foam and cut it out by hand. And I did this with the larger detail piece at
a four millimeter, and the interior detail piece at a six millimeter foam. Then some more
contact cement glue. And once it was dry, I attached those two pieces together and then
one more time with glue to attach it on top of our main part. And I’ll note that this part
I only attached to the top part of the sword. I did not attach it to the blade section.
If you are having this as one piece, then go ahead and attach it to the entire
blade of the sword as well as at this point, I did attach my little diamond piece to either
side that I had 3D printed earlier. And then for the blade section. And if you haven’t done so
already, go ahead and close off the top section. Creating our box. And for the sharp blade part on the outer part,
I ended up cutting more rectangular strips out of ten millimeter form. But preferably
if you have access to 12 millimeter, I would recommend that over the ten. And
this, you’re just going to cut the length of each of our edges of the blade.
So you should have four in total. Then I used my blueprint as a guide. So I knew
what angle to cut each of my foam pieces at, applied my contact cement glue, and then
attached each of the pieces to make our outer blade piece. And one more time, more
contact cement glue. This time we’re going to do it to the inside of the outer blade part,
as well as to the outside of our box frame part. And once the glue is dry,
attach that outer frame to it. And we want the edge of the blade to
come to a point. So I ended up drawing a guideline around all of the outer part
in the very center. And I use that as a reference as well as our glue line to
the top, cutting pretty much up like a 45 degree angle with my box cutter to those
two lines carving around the entire blade. Now, for me, I didn’t really worry
too much if it got a little wonky, because after this step I got out my
dremel and sanding drum and I went to town, making that all nice and smooth. And there
are still a few tiny little details we have not talked about yet. And those are the
four. I don’t know what to call them. They’re they’re have these little like
squiggle thingies. And I traced them with my tracing paper. Both of
the pieces on top of each other laid it on top of my actual foam piece,
and then wrapped it around the side of the foam so I knew exactly how much more foam
I needed to add to make each of these pieces. Next, I traced each of them onto four
millimeter foam, and I did add a tiny bit of extra foam onto the edge. Then
cut them out and glued them together, as well as glued them on top of our sword
blades. Now the very bottom one. I’ll note that I had it where our bottom section of
the blade was going to insert inside of it, so I made sure when I attached it that I
had the blade inserted into that piece. So that way it would make sure it could
slide easily in and out. Side note make sure not to apply your contact cement glue to
that bottom blade. Otherwise it’s not going to come apart. But if you don’t want it to come
apart, do apply that glue because you want it to be one solid piece. So yeah. And because
I wanted it to attach, I did add a extra spot. And this is what the Cos-Tools hole drills for
their smallest piece. I ended up inserting it into the top of the foam, so that way it would be
the size of my magnet and then inserted the magnet using super glue. And then I figured out where
it perfectly aligned onto the inside part of our top decorative piece. Did the same process of the
Cos-tools hole drill and applying our super glue to put the magnet in, and that would complete all
of our base construction of fabricating this sort. Now let’s go and paint and reminder that if
you don’t have an airbrush and compressor set up for painting, you can always hand paint this
with a paintbrush. And like all of my prop and foam builds, we have to prime it. And for this
I like to use Plasti Dip which is a rubber spray paint and you will want to apply three heavy
coats waiting 45 minutes in between each coat, as well as at the very end, waiting 24 hours
before we move on to actually painting this sword. Starting with our first piece, which is going
to be Createx Colors auto born sealer black. Now this is more of a primer like piece that
is specifically for more plastic and 3D printed parts. And I did still apply this onto our foam
parts, but basically this paint is for more smooth surfaces and it helps afterwards so the
paint will adhere to it better and not drip off. But you can also skip the step. It’s okay. And
then on to our actual color. And I’m going to be starting off with Createx Colors wicked opaque
black, gray and white paint, as well as I was kind of going for a more stylized look onto the entire
armor pieces, not just the sword. And to do this, I like there to be kind of like a battle
like damage and more kind of slash marks. And for this, while the paint is still wet, I
ended up grabbing my tweezers and scraping against the edges and kind of doing really quick, like
dashes to make it look like it’s been scratched. And by doing this, because this top coat is more
of a gray color and our undercoat is a black, you’re actually removing the top wet paint and
it’s going to reveal that black underneath. Then I masked off all of these kind of decorative
pieces and did basically the same mixture of colors of the black, gray, and white. But I
put a lot more black in this mixture instead, where it pretty much looks like
black. And the very last of our dark colors was going to be actual opaque
black. And that was for the handle part. Then when all of those dark colors were dry,
I kind of mask it off with some masking tape and we’re going to move on to opaque white. And
this white color is going to be the base of all of our next colors. So that way it’ll ensure
that all of the colors will pop. Then once the white was dry, it was time for pyrrole
orange, applying it to all exposed areas. And then I used Hansa Yellow. And with this hansa
yellow I focused more towards the center sections, trying to make sure that I kind of pulled the
airbrush away from the surface, and this would make the mist spread out more and have less of the
paint particles towards the edges. So that way the orange would show through more, and it would
give this glowing like effect. For the blade I did it more misty towards the top and went
really heavy with it towards the bottom. Reason being is I want the bottom of the
blade, the tip part to be the most light color and to glow more. So we’re going to
kind of do this gradient like effect with it. And for doing gradients, you do want
to slowly get lighter with your colors. So the next time we’re going to be using is
hansa yellow with white slowly adding more and more white into it. And I use this more
towards the very center of the top section of the sword. And then for the blade, I really
focused it towards the very center of the piece, as well as really heavily towards the tip
part and kind of pulling the airbrush away. As I got closer to the top. So that
way it would give more of this pull and go kind of gradient like look and give
you more glow overall feel to the sword. Now I will note that you’ll probably
want to do this a few times. So that way the sword doesn’t end up looking
like a carrot and being too orange. You do want the sword to be more on the
yellow side, so just use your judgment going back and forth and have fun with it.
And our last color that we’re going to be using is going to be pearl magenta.
And for this with the airbrush paint, I did apply it by hand with
a paintbrush in a few coats. You can always airbrush paint this on, but
I don’t really feel like masking off all the other pieces just for this tiny
little section. But once it was dry, we then could remove all of our masking tape,
exposing our beautiful sword and then for our very last step before we complete
the sword is we do need to seal it. And for this, I’m going to be using Createx
Colors UVLS Satin. Applying it to the entire surface of both the blade and to the top part
with our handle and all of the pieces. And this is a clear coat that is going to protect
your paint from fading from the UV light, as well as it’s going to give an
even a shine onto the entire piece. And that pretty much completes
how I made this sword. And that guys, how I made Magik’s sword
and I hope this video was helpful. I did mention in the beginning that it does
come apart. And I’ll show you a little bit about that real quick. So I have
it where the seam is hidden, right, right here. So you can only see a very,
very small amount. And it comes apart. So with the blade I ended up cutting a hole. This
is the same size that our pipe goes into. But a pipe alone will not hold your props together. So
I went and I added magnets. So there’s actually a magnet here and here on either side. And that
is just to secure the top part of the sword, the handle part, so it doesn’t come off
of our blade as well as typically when you make swords and it has this little flap,
decorative doodle, if it’s not attached, they tend to be a little floppy
and not stick flat to the blade. So I found that by adding the magnets
on the inside. So you have one here and one on the inside here, but it helps
keep it flat to the blade as well. As you can see the pipe here. And this
is what inserts into the blade section and makes it so this is all structurally
sound and it’s just simple to assemble. And done. And I’ve actually flown
with this already from Nebraska to Idaho. And it had no issues with flying and it was really lightweight. So if you’re making
a sword I recommend doing it this way. And that, guys, is how I made Magik’s sword
from Marvel Rivals. And I hope that you maybe learned a few new tricks to help you with
your next prep build. Or maybe just here to watch. Oh oh la la la la la la la la. But that,
guys, is how I made Magik’s Sword from Marvel Rivals. And I hope that you found this video
helpful for making maybe your own Magik sword. Or maybe this will help for making another
type of prop, another type for a different character. But let me know in the comments if
there is another character from Marvel Rivals that you would like me to cosplay or make a prop
of. Yes. Yes. As well as don’t forget to like the video and subscribe to the channel and stay up
to date, as there will be two other tutorials for Magik that I’ll have coming out on this
YouTube channel, as well as a big thank you to all of my company sponsors and all of my members,
specifically those legendary members who helped so that way I can continue
doing this as my full time job. And I’ll see you for our
next tutorial. Much love guys.
Marvel Rivals の Magick 用の胸当てを自分で作る方法のチュートリアル! ✂2D 剣の設計図✂ https://www.tiffanygordoncosplay.com/2d-comic-blueprints/magik-sword-blueprint ✂3D CAD/.stl ファイル✂ https://www.tiffanygordoncosplay.com/3d-cad-stl-files/magik-sword-handle-gem ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ (0:01) イントロ (0:53) 製作資料 (1:05) 製作(12:03) 塗装材料 (12:13) 塗装 (17:08) 完成した剣/取り付け方 (19:12) エンディング/クレジット ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ✴ビデオで使用されている素材✴ 4mm HD フォーム ▶ https://bit.ly/3taTEVO 6mm HDフォーム ▶ https://bit.ly/3LDwmhI 10mm HD フォーム ▶ https://bit.ly/3LEWrwT ヒートガン ▶ https://amzn.to/2N5yiRh ドレメル/ ロータリーツールキット ▶ https://amzn.to/3eaIMuE サンディングドラム ▶ https://amzn.to/3kXqelm 3/4 インチ CPVC パイプ ▶ https://amzn.to/4gaZytW 6x2mm マグネット ▶ https://amzn.to/2BhdT9m Elegoo FDM プリンター ▶ https://amzn.to/44uwwSA Elegoo フィラメント ▶ https://amzn.to/44XgQqS ✴カッティング✴ ボックスカッター ▶ https://amzn.to/2Cjwy51 エグザクトナイフ ▶ https://amzn.to/3ddtfsC カッティングマット ▶ https://amzn.to/2CHsT0R パイプカッター ▶ https://amzn.to/4cR68mK Cos-Tools 穴あけドリル ✴接着剤✴ コンタクトセメント接着剤 ▶ https://amzn.to/2YZiJjZ エポキシ ▶ https://amzn.to/3XoLxS6 瞬間接着剤 ▶ https://amzn.to/3vioEEo ホットグルー/ガン ▶ https://amzn.to/3M5OQpC ✴ペイント✴ サンダブルプライマー ▶ https://amzn.to/4kcoUsr プラスティディップ ▶ https://amzn.to/2ClNE2h エアブラシスターターキット ▶ https://amzn.to/37CQOtQ イワタエアブラシガン ▶ https://amzn.to/2UU3Ldv ペイントブラシ ▶ https://amzn.to/2ALhf4C アクリル絵の具 ▶ https://amzn.to/3ecd1l1 ✴安全性✴ 手袋 ▶ https://amzn.to/2ALhRXY 呼吸用保護具 ▶ https://amzn.to/4o9Phlf フェイスシールド ▶ https://amzn.to/31XVEkb Amazon、Blick、およびその他のリンクはすべてアフィリエイト リンクであり、製品を購入した場合に追加費用なしでチャンネルをサポートするのに役立ちます。ありがとう！ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ▬ ⭐フォローミー⭐ Instagram ▶ https://www.instagram.com/tiffanygordoncosplay/ Facebook ▶ https://www.facebook.com/TiffanyGordonCosplay/ スレッド ▶ https://www.threads.net/@tiffanygordoncosplay TikTok ▶https://www.tiktok.com/@tiffanygordoncosplay Twitch ▶ https://www.twitch.tv/tiffanygordoncosplay Twitter ▶ https://twitter.com/tiffanycosplay Gaming YouTube ▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPCBrWFphjh3ycNBD1ljlMw 💖サポート💖 Ko-fi ▶ https://ko-fi.com/tiffanygordoncosplay パトロン ▶ https://www.patreon.com/TiffanyGordonCosplay 🎁私のコスプレショップ!🎁 クラフトツールと材料 ▶ https://www.amazon.com/shop/tiffanygordoncosplay 生地ストア ▶ https://www.spoonflower.com/profiles/tiffanygordoncosplay ウェブサイト/ ストア/ 2D パターン/ 3D CAD ▶ https://www.tiffanygordoncosplay.com/ ♥スポンサー♥ ブリックアート素材 [HD Foam] ▶ https://bit.ly/3PVV7sb コスツールズ [EVA Foam Tools] ▶ https://amzn.to/3Ov7udZ クリテックスカラー [Airbrush Paint] ▶ https://createxcolors.com/ エレグー ▶ https://amzn.to/4jSAfyg エクセル [Hand Tools & Blades] ▶ https://excelblades.com/ 岩田 [Airbrush Guns/ Compressors] ▶ https://www.iwata-airbrush.com/ エルメールウィッグ「コードTIFFANYで12％オフ」 [Cosplay Wigs] ▶ https://www.wig-supplier.com/?rfsn=6304220.1707ef ライチ スライサー [3D Printer Slicer] ▶ https://lychee.co/?utm_source=Affillae&utm_campaign=Lychee&utm_medium=Tiffany%20Gordon%20Cosplay%20LLC&ae=106 ピンキーパラダイス「コード TIFFANYGORDONCOSPLAY10 で 10% オフ + 無料プレゼント」 [Contact Lenses] ▶ https://www.pinkyparadise.com/ プラスティディップ [Rubber Spray Paint] ▶ https://plastidip.com/ レイノルズ アドバンスト マテリアルズ [FX/ Mold Making Materials] ▶ https://www.reynoldsam.com/ スムースオン [FX/ Mold Making Materials] ▶ https://www.smooth-on.com/ SweetyCon「TGCコードで10％オフ」 [Contact Lenses] ▶ https://www.uniqso.com/?ref=3292772.4bd87bf シュアボンダー [Hot Glue/ Glue Gun] ▶ https://amzn.to/3OuBnuM Uniqso「TGCコードで10％オフ」 [Contact Lenses] ▶ https://www.uniqso.com/?ref=3292772.4bd87bf #コスプレ #マジック #マーベルライバル
MAG.MOE - The MAG, The MOE.